We pull the old unit, check the header for rot or stripped mounting screws (rare in a home this age, but we still check), and confirm the door itself - springs, cables, track - is sound before hanging a new opener on it. A door that's out of balance will burn out a brand-new motor just as fast as it burned out the old one, so balance gets checked first, every time. Installation includes wiring the wall control, setting travel limits, and programming remotes and any keypad you want added. If your home still has the original wall switch and no keypad, this is usually the point where people add one - it's a small add during the swap, a separate call after the fact.